General

Disney’s New York flagship store has run aground

Jim Hill returns from NYC with a somewhat depressing story about the 5th Avenue Disney Store. What was once the crown jewel of the entire Disney retail chain is now a sad shell of itself. Where once there was great art … now there are t-shirts for sale.

Published

19 years ago

November 11, 2003

Jim Hill

So — given that she has two parents that make their living writing about the Walt Disney Company — guess what my darling daughter collects? You are correct, sir! Pokémon figures.

Which is why — late Sunday afternoon — Michelle, Alice and I found ourselves in Manhattan. So that my daughter could visit the stateside version of Pokémon fan nirvana. Which is the Pokémon Center New York, this two-story-tall, 13,000-square-foot shop in Rockefeller Center. Which is packed to the gills with Pokémon crud.

$50 later, my daughter strolled happily out of the Pokémon Center New York. Clutching a miniature play set that one can usually only purchase in Japan. Then my ex-wife — being the hardcore Disney fan that she is -asked: “Can we please go to the flagship Disney Store on 5th Avenue?”

I actually tried to talk Michelle out of. Reminding my ex that — since the Walt Disney Company had quietly put its retail chain up for sale earlier this year — that the Mouse had been putting zero dollars into upkeep at the Disney Stores. Which was really had a horrible impact on the 5th Avenue store.

But — even so — my ex could not be dissuaded. She HAD to make a pilgrimage to Manhattan’s version of Mickey Mecca. Which is why she insisted that the three of us hike the eight city blocks to the corner of 5 and 55th. Where this three-story-tall former showplace still stands.

Even from the outside of the shop, it was clear that there had been significant cutbacks at Disney’s flagship store. Those two bronze statues of Mickey and Minnie that used to grace the enormous brass-and-copper film scroll marquee over the store’s entrance? They’re gone. Likewise those oversized paintbrushes and ink pens. These outside decorations were supposedly pulled down to get the building ready for its next tenant. Which is rumored to be Alfred Dunhill of London, the boutique chain best known for its fragrances and beauty products.

Inside, all of those wonderful hand-painted murals of Disney characters? They’re now all covered up by these giant photo banners of happy holiday shoppers. All that great Disney-Store-5th-Avenue-exclusive merchandise that used to be on sale here? It’s been replaced by all this generic NYC stuff.

Walking through the 5th Avenue store today, it’s really hard to remember what a showplace Disney’s flagship store store once was. Back when this place first opened up in the late winter / early spring of 1997. When the Imagineers were determined to turn this shop into one of the top tourist spots in NYC.

That’s why no expense was spared on Disney’s flagship store. WDI designed every square inch of the place. Which — occurring to the back story that the Imagineers cooked up for this space — was originally supposed to have been the mansion that Walt Disney had purchased for Mickey and his friends back in the 1930s. So that the Disney characters would always have someplace to stay whenever they were visiting Manhattan.

And when I say “characters,” I mean ALL of the Disney characters. Take — for example — the third floor of the 5th Avenue store. Which was themed to look as if it was the attic of the mansion. This was where the Disney villains had supposedly set up shop. Which was why you had all this great hand-painted mural of Lady Tremaine, the Big Bad Wolf and Mad Madam Mim lurking around in a dark, cluttered attic looming over this part of the store.

But that was in the past. Now your view of this rogues’ gallery is obscured by these giant brightly colored photo banners. Which show holiday shoppers happily clutching Disney plush.

To be honest, it was my stroll around the third floor of the 5th Avenue Disney Store that I found to be most depressing part of our trip to the shop. For this used to be the Disney Gallery space within the NYC flagship store. Where you used to be able to see one of the largest displays of Disney animation art in the country.

Nowadays, what used to be the main gallery space at the 5th Avenue Disney Store is now loaded with t-shirts. What little remains of the flagship store’s once formidable selection of lithos and limited edition cels has been shunted over to the stair area. A similar sort of thing has been done with the store’s stock of Walt Disney Classics Collection pieces. They’re now all been crammed into this small series of shelves.

And Otto Matic — that great little minimatronic figure (Which was voiced by Penn Jillette of Penn and Teller fame) — that visitors to the 5th Avenue Disney Store were once invited to try and control by hand. He’s gone too. (Keep an eye on eBay. I was told by store employees that that’s where Otto is heading. Along with the Mickey and Minnie bronze statues that used to stand over the store’s entrance.)

Feeling thoroughly depressed now, I took the elevator down to the basement level of the building. Which — back in the day — was where the Disney Travel Desk used to be located. So — as part of your Manhattan shopping experience — you could also book a trip to Disneyland, Walt Diney World, Tokyo Disneyland and/or Disneyland Paris.

Clearly that idea never panned out. Which is why the Travel Desk was torn out a few years back. And — in its place — row after row of naked mannequins now stand out in the open, for the whole world to see. There used to be a time when the Walt Disney Company would have considered something like this “Bad Show.” Not any longer. These days, it’s just business as usual at the 5th Avenue Disney Store.

Look, I know that things can’t always stay the same. And that change — and progress — are inevitable. But — that said — I can’t help but think that the 5th Avenue Disney Store is this tragically squandered opportunity. That — ‘way back in 1997, when this flagship store was initially opened — that this elegant NYC shop was viewed as Disney’s ultimate marriage between retail and entertainment. And now … Well … its’ clear that that marriage is on now the rocks.

Why for? Because — over the past six years — the entire Disney Store chain (Not just the 5th Avenue store) became less and less about show and more and more about business. About making a buck at all costs. And never mind the fact that consumers tend to get turned off by naked obvious greed.

Quick question here: When’s the last time you made a special trip to the Mall just to visit your local Disney Store? For those of us who live thousands of miles away from Anaheim or Orlando, this is how we used to get our Disney fix. We’d drop by our area Disney Store once or twice a month, check out all the merchandise. And — invariably — we’d buy something.

Of course, this was back in the day when TDS cast members were taught to treat each and every person who came through the door like a special guest. When the pressure wasn’t on to sell-SELL-SELL!? But — rather — their goal was to make every shopper think that going (Not just shopping, mind you. But just the simple act of going) to the Disney Store was to be “just as fun as going to Disneyland.”

Nowadays … A trip to the Disney Store is just unpleasant. At least for me. You’re just surrounded by all these high-priced toys that someone in market research decided that kids would go for. Which is why you have the “Disney Adventurer” action figures for boys and the “Disney Princess Ballerinas” for girls. And all around you are these alleged additional inducements to shop and spend. Save $20 on a Disney snow globe. Spend $50 and we’ll give you a $10 gift card and/or a free piece of plush. Pre-order “Pirates of the Caribbean.” On and on and on …

Which was why — after just 20 minutes in the 5th Avenue Disney Store — I was noodging Michelle and Alice along. Trying to get them out of the place. Just standing inside that shop (Particularly in the 1st floor Disney Princess area. Which — floor to ceiling — has been painted Pepto Bismal pink) was giving me a headache.

Eventually, the three of us found ourselves back outside in the cool night air. We had explored the entire 5th Avenue Disney Store from top to bottom in just under 30 minutes … And yet we hadn’t seen a single thing that any of us wanted to buy.

This may explain why the Walt Disney Company is having such a problem finding someone to buy its 300-plus Disney Stores. For — sometime over the past six years — the Mouse has lost its once-legendary hold on consumers. That that warm, fuzzy feeling that we all used to feel about Mickey and the products that the Disney corporation churned out has been replaced by this vague feeling of unease. That sense that — whenever the Mouse is about — you’d best be keeping a hand on your wallet. That Mickey isn’t really all that interested in making us smile anymore. That this soon-to-be-75-years-old rodent is far more interested in finding yet another way to separate us from our hard-earned dollars.

Looking back at the 5th Avenue Disney Store with its sadly stripped-down marquee, I couldn’t help but wonder: Will this place even be here the next time I get down to NYC? How much longer will the Mouse keep its Disney Store chain up and running? Or — if they fail to find a buyer soon — will Disney just do what Warners did back in 2001: Which is just pull the plug on its entire retail operation.

It was just too depressing to think about. Which is why I took Alice by the hand and — with Michelle snapping pictures as we walked along — headed over toward Times Square. With the hope that all the lights down there would help lighten our moods.

And — if that didn’t work … Well, there was always cheesecake.

Your thoughts?

General

Jens Dahlmann of LongHorn Steakhouse has lots of great tips when it comes to grilling

Published

6 years ago

July 4, 2017

Jim Hill

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Sure, for some folks, the Fourth of July is all about fireworks. But for the 75% of all Americans who own a grill or a smoker, the Fourth is our Nation’s No. 1 holiday when it comes to grilling. Which is why 3 out of 4 of those folks will spend some time outside today working over a fire.

But here’s the thing: Though 14 million Americans can cook a steak with confidence because they actually grill something every week, the rest of us – because we use our grill or smoker so infrequently … Well, let’s just say that we have no chops when it comes to dealing with chops (pork, veal or otherwise).

So what’s a backyard chef supposed to in a situation like this when there’s so much at steak … er … stake? Turn to someone who really knows their way around a grill for advice. People like Jens Dahlmann, the Vice President and Corporate Executive Chef for Darden Restaurant’s LongHorn Steakhouse brand.

Given that Jens’ father & grandfather were chefs, this is a guy who literally grew up in a kitchen. In his teens & twenties, Dahlmann worked in hotels & restaurants all over Switzerland & Germany. Once he was classically trained in the culinary arts, Jens then jumped ship. Well, started working on cruise ships, I mean.

Anyway … While working on Cunard’s Sea Goddess, Dahlmann met Sirio Maccioni, the founder of Le Cirque 2000. Sirio was so impressed with Jens’ skills in the kitchen that he offered him the opportunity to become sous-chef at this New York landmark. After four years of working in Manhattan, Dahlmann then headed south to become executive chef at Palm Beach’s prestigious Café L’Europe.

Jens Dahlmann back during his Disney World days

And once Jens began wowing foodies in Florida, it wasn’t all that long ’til the Mouse came a-calling. Mickey wanted Dahlmann to shake things up in the kitchen over at WDW’s Flying Fish Café. And he did such a good job with that Disney’s Boardwalk eatery the next thing Jens knew, he was then being asked to work his magic with the menu at the Contemporary Resort’s California Grill.

From there, Dahlmann had a relatively meteoric rise at the Mouse House. Once he became Epcot’s Food & Beverage general manager, it was only a matter of time before he wound up as the executive chef in charge of this theme park’s annual International Food & Wine Festival. Which – under Jens’ guidance – experienced some truly explosive growth.

“When I took on Food & Wine, that festival was only 35 days long and had gross revenues of just $5.5 million. When I left Disney in 2016, Food & Wine was now over 50 days long and that festival had gross revenues of $22 million,” Dahlmann admitted during a recent sit-down. “I honestly loved those 13 years I spent at Disney. When I was working there, I learned so much because I was really cooking for America.”

And it was exactly that sort of experience & expertise that Darden wanted to tap into when they lured Jens away from Mickey last year to become LongHorn Steakhouse’s new Vice President and Corporate Executive Chef. But today … Well, Dahlmann is offering tips to those of us who are thinking about cooking steak tips for the Fourth.

Photo by Jim Hill

“When you’re planning on grilling this holiday, if you’re looking for a successful result, the obvious place to start is with the quality of the meat you plan on cooking for your friends & family. If you want the best results here, don’t be cheap when you go shopping. Spend the money necessary for a fresh filet or a New York strip. Better yet a Ribeye, a nice thick one with good marbling. Because when you look at the marbling on a steak, that’s where all the flavor happens,” Jens explained. “That said, you always have to remember that — the higher you go with the quality of your meat — the less time you’re going to want that piece of meat to spend on the grill.”

And speaking of cooking … Before you even get started here, Jens suggests that you first take the time to check over all of your grilling equipment. Making sure that the grill itself is first scraped clean & then properly oiled before you then turn up the heat.

“If you’re working with a dirty grill, when you go to turn your meat, it may wind up sticking to the grill. Or maybe those spices that you’ve just so carefully coated your steak with will wind up sticking to the grill, rather than your meat,” Dahlmann continued. “Which is why it’s always worth it to spend a few minutes prior to firing up your grill properly cleaning & oiling it.”

Photo by Jim Hill

And speaking of heat … Again, before you officially get started grilling here, Jens says that it’s crucial to check your temperature gauges. Make sure that your char grill is set at 550 (so that it can then properly handle the thicker cuts of meat) and your flattop is set at 425 (so it can properly sear thinner pieces of meat).

Okay. Once you’ve bought the right cuts of quality meat, properly cleaned & oiled your grill, and then made sure that everything’s set at the right temperature (“If you can only stand to hold your hand directly over the grill for two or three seconds, that’s the right amount of heat,” Dahlmann said), it’s now time to season your steaks.

“Don’t be afraid to be bold here. You can’t be shy when it comes to seasoning your meat. You want to give it a nice coating. Largely because — if you’re using a char grill — a lot of that seasoning is just going to fall off anyway,” Jens stated. “It’s up to you to decide what sort of seasoning you want to use here. Even just some salt & pepper will enhance a steak’s flavor.”

Then – according to Dahlmann – comes the really tough part. Which is placing your meat on the grill and then fighting the urge to flip it too early or too often.

“The biggest mistake that a lot of amateur cooks make is that they flip the steak too many times. The real key to a well-cooked piece of meat is just let it be, “Jens insisted. “Of course, if you’re serving different cuts of meat at your Fourth of July feast, you always want to put your biggest thickest steak on the grill first. If you’re also cooking a New York Strip, you want to put that one on a few minutes later. But after that, just let the grill do its job and flip your meat a total of three or four times, once every three minutes or so.”

Of course, the last thing you want to do is overcook a quality piece of meat. Which is why Dahlmann suggests that – when it comes to grilling steaks – if you’re going to err, err on the side of undercooking.

“You can always put a piece of meat back on the grill if it’s slightly undercooked. When you over-cook something, all you can do then is start over with a brand-new piece of meat,” Jens said. “Just be sure that you’re using the correct cut of meat for the cooking result you’re aiming for. If someone wants a rare or medium rare steak, you should go with a thicker cut of steak. If one of your guests wants their steak cooked medium or well, it’s best to start with a thinner cut of meat.”

Photo by Jim Hill

As you can see, the folks at Longhorn take grilling steaks seriously. How seriously? Just last week at Darden Corporate Headquarters in Orlando, seven of these brand’s top grill masters (who – after weeks of regional competitions – had been culled from the 491 restaurants that make up this chain) competed for a $10,000 prize in the Company’s second annual Steak Master Series. And Dahlmann was one of the people who stood in Darden’s test kitchens, watching like a hawk as each of the contestants struggled to prepare six different dishes in just 20 minutes according to Longhorn Steakhouse’s exacting standards.

“I love that Darden does this. Recognizing the best of the best who work this restaurant,” Jens concluded. “We have a lot of people here who are incredibly knowledgeable & passionate when it comes to grilling.”

Speaking of which … If today’s story doesn’t include the exact piece of info that you need to properly grill that T-bone, just whip out your iPhone & text GRILL to 55702. Or – better yet – visit ExpertGriller.com prior to firing up your grill or smoker later today.

This article was originally published by the Huffington Post on Tuesday, July 4, 2017

General

Brattleboro’s Strolling of the Heifers is a sincere if somewhat surreal way to spend a summer’s day in Vermont

Published

6 years ago

June 4, 2017

Jim Hill

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Some people travel halfway ‘around the planet so that they can then experience the excitement of the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona. If you’re more of a Slow Living enthusiast (as I am), then perhaps you should amble to Brattleboro, VT. Where – over the first weekend in June – you can then join a herd of cow enthusiasts at the annual Strolling of the Heifers.

Now in its 16^th year, this three-day long event typically gets underway on Friday night in June with a combination block party / gallery walk. But then – come Saturday morning – Main Street in Brattleboro is lined with thousands of bovine fans.

Photo by Jim Hill

They’ve staked out primo viewing spots and set up camp chairs hours ahead of time. Just so these folks can then have a front row seat as this year’s crop of calves (which all come from local farms & 4-H clubs) are paraded through the streets.

Photo by Jim Hill

Viewed from curbside, Strolling of the Heifers is kind of this weird melding of a sincere small town celebration and Pasadena’s Doo Dah Parade. Meaning that – for every entry that actually acknowledged this year’s theme (i.e. “Dance to the Moosic”) — …

Photo by Jim Hill

… there was something completely random, like this parade’s synchronized shopping cart unit.

Photo by Jim Hill

And for every piece of authentic Americana (EX: That collection of antique John Deere tractors that came chugging through the city) …

Photo by Jim Hill

… there was something silly. Like – say – a woman dressed as a Holstein pushing a baby stroller through the streets. And riding in that stroller was a pig dressed in a tutu.

Photo by Jim Hill

And given that this event was being staged in the Green Mountain State & all … Well, does it really surprise you to learn that — among the groups that marched in this year’s Strolling of the Heifers – was a group of eco-friendly folks who, with their chants of “We’re Number One !,” tried to persuade people along the parade route not to flush the toilet after they pee. Because – as it turns out – urine can be turned into fertilizer.

Photo by Jim Hill

And speaking of fertilizer … At the tail end of the parade, there was a group of dedicated volunteers who were dealing with what came out of the tail end of all those cows.

Photo by Jim Hill

This year’s Strolling of the Heifers concluded at the Brattleboro town common. Where event attendees could then get a closer look at some of the featured units in this year’s parade…

Photo by Jim Hill

… or perhaps even pet a few of the participants.

Photo by Jim Hill

But as for the 90+ calves who took part in the 2017 edition of Strolling of the Heifers, once they reached the town common, it was now time for a nosh or a nap.

Photo by Jim Hill

Elsewhere on the common, keeping with this year’s “Dance to the Moosic” theme, various musical groups performed in & around the gazebo throughout the afternoon.

Photo by Jim Hill

While just across the way – keeping with Brattleboro’s tradition of showcasing the various artisans who live & work in the local community – some pretty funky pieces were on display at the Slow Living Exposition.

Photo by Jim Hill

All in all, attending Strolling of the Heifers is a somewhat surreal but still very pleasant way to spend a summer’s day in Vermont. And that’s no bull.

Photo by Jim Hill

Well, that could be a bull. To be honest, what with the wig & all, it’s kind of hard to tell.

This article was originally published by the Huffington Post on Sunday, June 4, 2017

General

Looking to make an authentic Irish meal for Saint Patrick’s Day? If so, then chef Kevin Dundon says not to cook corned beef & cabbage

Published

6 years ago

March 17, 2017

Jim Hill

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Let’s at least start on a positive note: Celebrated chef, author & TV personality Kevin Dundon – the man that Tourism Ireland has repeatedly chosen as the Face of Irish Food – loves a lot of what happens in the United States on March 17th.

“I mean, look at what they do in Chicago on Saint Patrick’s Day. They toss all of this vegetable-based dye into the Chicago River and then paint it green for a day. That’s terrific,” Kevin said.

But then when it comes to what many Americans eat & drink on St. Paddy’s Day (i.e., a big plate of corned beef and cabbage. Which is then washed down with a mug of green beer) … Well, that’s where Dundon has to draw the line.

Irish celebrity chef Kevin Dundon displays a traditional Irish loin of bacon with Colcannon potatoes and a Dunbrody Kiss chocolate dessert. Photo by Tom Burton. Copyright Disney Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved

“Green beer? No real Irishman would be caught dead drinking that stuff,” Kevin insists. “And as for eating corned beef & cabbage … That’s not actually authentic Irish fare either. Bacon and cabbage? Sure. But corned beef & cabbage was something that the Irish only began eating after they’d come to the States to escape the Famine. And even then these Irish-Americans only began serving corned beef & cabbage to their friends & family because they had to make do with the ingredients that were available to them at that time.”

And thus begins the strange tale of how corned beef & cabbage came to be associated with the North American celebration of Saint Patrick’s Day celebration. Because – according to Dundon – beef just wasn’t all that big a part of the Irish diet back in the 19th century.

To explain: Back in the Old Country, cattle – while they were obviously highly prized for the milk & cheese that they produced – were also beasts of burden. Meaning that they were often used for ploughing the fields or for hauling heavy loads. Which is why – back then — these animals were rarely slaughtered when they were still young & healthy. If anything, land owners liked to put a herd of cattle on display out in one of their pastures because that was then a sign to their neighbors that this farm was prosperous.

“Whereas pork … Well, everybody raised pigs back then. Which is why pork was a staple of the Irish diet rather than beef,” Dundon continued.

So if that’s what people actually ate back in the Old Country, how then did corned beef & cabbage come to be so strongly associated with Saint Patrick’s Day in the States.? That largely had to do with where the Irish wound up living after they arrived in the New World.

“When the Irish first arrived in America following the Great Famine, a lot of them wound up living in the inner city right alongside the Germans & the Jews, who were also recent immigrants to the States. And while that farm-fresh pork that the Irish loved wasn’t readily available, there was brisket. Which the Irish could then cure by first covering this piece of meat with corn kernel-sized pieces of rock salt – that’s how it came to be called corned beef. Because of the sizes of the pieces of rock salt that were used in the curing process – and then placing all that in a pot of water with other spices to soak for a few days.”

And as for the cabbage portion of corned beef & cabbage … Well, according to Kevin, in addition to buying their meat from the kosher delis in their neighborhood, the Irish would also frequent the stores that the German community shopped in. Where – thanks to their love of sauerkraut (i.e., pickled cabbage) – there was always a ready supply of cabbage to be had.

“So when you get right down to it, it was the American melting pot that led to corned beef & cabbage being found in the Irish-American cooking pot,” Dundon continued. “Since they couldn’t find or didn’t have easy access to the exact same ingredients that they had back in Ireland, Irish-Americans made do with what they could find in the immediate vicinity. And what they made was admittedly tasty. But it’s not actually authentic Irish fare.”

Mind you, what Kevin serves at Raglan Road Irish Pub and Restaurant at Disney Springs (which – FYI – Orlando Magazine voted as the area’s best restaurant back in 2014) is nothing if not authentic. Dundon and his team at this acclaimed gastropub pride themselves on making traditional Irish fare and then contemporized it.

“Take – for example – what we serve here instead of corned beef & cabbage. Again, because it was pork – rather than beef – that was the true staple of the Irish diet back then, what we offer instead is a loin of bacon that has been glazed with Irish Mist. That then comes with colcannon potatoes. Which is this traditional Irish dish that’s made up of mashed potato that have had some cabbage & bacon mixed through it,” Kevin enthused. “This heavenly ham – that’s what we actually call this traditional Irish dish at Raglan Road, Kevin’s Heavenly Ham – also includes some savory cabbage with a parsley cream sauce as well as a raisin cider jus. It’s simple food. But because of the basic ingredients – and that’s the real secret of Irish cuisine. That our ingredients are so strong – the flavors just pop off the plate.”

Which brings us to the real challenge that Dundon and the Raglan Road team face every day. Making sure that they actually have all of the ingredients necessary to make this traditional-yet-contemporized Irish fare to those folks who frequent this Walt Disney World favorite.

“Take – for example – the fish we serve here. We only used cold water fish. Salmon, mussels and haddock that have been hauled out of the Atlantic, the ocean that America and Ireland share,” Kevin stated. “Not that there’s anything wrong with warm water fish. It’s just that … Well, it doesn’t have the same structure. It’s a softer fish, which doesn’t really fit the parameters of Irish cuisine. And if you’re going to serve authentic food, you have to be this dedicated when it comes to sourcing your ingredients.

And if you’re thinking of perhaps trying to serve an authentic Irish meal this year, rather than once again serving corned beef & cabbage at your Saint Patrick’s Day Feast … Well, back in September of last year, Mitchell Beazley published “The Raglan Road Cookbook: Inside America’s Favorite Irish Pub.” This 296-page hardcover not only includes the recipe for Kevin’s Heavenly Ham but also it tells the tale of how this now-world-renown restaurant wound up being built in Orlando.

On the other hand, if you happen to have to the luck of the Irish and are actually down at The Walt Disney World Resort right now, it’s worth noting that Raglan Road is right in the middle of its Mighty St. Patrick’s Day Festival. This four day-long event – which includes Irish bands and professional dancers – stretches through Sunday night. And in addition to all that authentic Irish fare that Dundon and his team are cooking up, you also sample the fine selection of beers & cocktails that this establishment’s four distinct antique bars (each of which are more than 130 years old and were imported directly from Ireland) will be serving. Just – As ucht Dé (That’s “For God’s Sake” in Gaelic) – don’t make the mistake of asking the bartender there for a mug of green beer.

“Why would anyone willingly drink something like that?,” Dundon laughed. “I mean, just imagine what their washroom will look like the morning after.”

This article was originally published by the Huffington Post on Friday, March 17, 2017